Berkshire Sculling Assn., Inc. - Rowing

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About Lew Cuyler

Now What?

BRASS: Berkshire Rowing and Sculling Society

Berkshire Sculling, Inc.: Sales

Buying a rowing shell?
Here's what to think about.

Lew Cuyler’s biography of Ernestine Bayer

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"There is nothing -
absolutely nothing -
half so much worth
doing as simply
messing about in
boats...."

The Wind in the Willows

By Lew Cuyler
Buying a rowing shell is not a simple decision because no one shell will perform well in all weather conditions and will work for all abilities. The only certainties are:

-- The decision will mean trade-offs involving considerations of rowing ability, financial situation, and whether you will row in rough or smooth water;

-- You can expect to pay at least $3,000 for a decent used shell and oars, unless you find a fixer-upper or make out at an estate sale.

The good news is that rowing shells, if cared for, will usually hold their value, meaning they can be sold for not much less than the original payment. Comparisons may be comforting to those concerned about costs. For instance, we see the fishers routinely launching their boats and equipment – motors, trailers, gear – that cost at least as much as a rowing shell. Power boats, jet skis and the like cost more. So do doctors. If you row, chances are that you will stay healthy and avoid many of the costs of medical care.

There is even better news. Single shell rowing provides gentle exercise, with no twisting of the joints. More than that, however, rowing a single is spiritual. It teaches you how to create a union between your mind, body, shell, oars and the elements of water and weather. Some rowers call it “zen.” Others say they get into a “zone” while rowing. Most agree that rowing provides a liberation of spirit that results in a better focus on other aspects of life.

In short, the initial investment in rowing will pay itself back many times over in terms of mental attitude and well-being.

***

So….Where do we go from here?

There are wide shells for rough water; skinny shells for racing; as well as some in-between models. There is also a wide range of prices depending on the materials used. The lighter, stiffer, stronger materials are more expensive; a fiberglass-only shell will cost less. Finally, whatever shell you decide to buy will probably not be your shell for life. You will eventually want to upgrade or own two shells, one for rough water, one for smooth.

Prospective single scullers should take a rowing lesson first to see what rowing is all about. It is not a sport for everyone. After a lesson would-be rowers may well decide that this is not the sport for them in which case they will have saved a lot of money and time.

However, if would-be rowers decide that they like the sport, it will usually take at least another one or two lessons to reach a level where they can take a recreational shell out solo and just paddle around to confirm their discovery. They will find that rowing is not an instant-learn sport. Instead, skilled rowing takes a lot of practice and hard work. The rewards in both mental and physical health, however, represent a huge payoff.

They will also find that there are no perfect rowers, but many excellent ones. In a season of regular singles rowing, beginners will probably learn 80 percent of what they need to know. Mastering the remaining 20 percent will take them the rest of their lives, so the joy will be in the travel rather than the destination.

Single sculling weds technique and strength. In the beginning technique is much more important. Adult women tend to learn more quickly than adult men because they are much more sensitive to the subtleties of technique. Adult men, on the other hand, tend to rely on power and, often to their surprise, find that it backfires and the shell will not behave.

In rowing, especially for beginners, less is more, gentle is better. I recommend learning rowing in steps: first the recreational (also called open water) shells because they are so much more stable and then, finally racing shells. The rowing stroke is the same in each. The ocean and recreational shells, however, forgive mistakes in technique. That means they will lurch, but only occasionally tip over. Racing shells, on the other hand, can flip even with a slight lapse in technique. They require much more concentration to row successfully. Many rowers stick with recreational shells because they prefer the security. Others like the greater responsiveness and speed of the racing shells. There is no holy grail for shells. You row the shell that best meets your requirements.

Racing Shells
Racing shells fall into two sub-classes, the "club" shell and the "elite" shell. As their names suggests, club shells cost less new and with fewer adjustments are designed to be shared by a number of rowers. In contrast, elite shells have many adjustments, enabling owners to fine tune the fittings to their own particular comfort level and requirements. Elite shells are made of more expensive materials and therefore are lighter. The typical club shell will sell new from $4,000 plus or minus. Elite shells are generally $5,000 and up.

If you are thinking of buying a racing shell, beware of what you wish for. These shells are fast, lots of fun, provide great exercise in flat water if you are strorking well. However, they are much tougher to row in rough water. If your conditions are predominantly rough, you may not want to make the jump to a racing shell because your rowing opportunities will be limited. Racing shells are typically 26 to 28 feet long, so storage may be an issue. If a boathouse is unavailable, they can be car-topped with relatively little difficulty, but greater care in driving must be taken because of their length. Car-topping usually requires more work and more time.

Racing shells of both varieties are also classified roughly by the weight of the rower. Specifications differ but lightweights generally go to 130 pounds; midweights, from 130 to 175 pounds; and heavyweights, over 175 to 225 or 230. These are generalizations and the "feel" of the shell differs with each manufacturer. Beginner rowers should at least be aware of the weight factor and try to avoid such situations as a 200 pound rower using a lightweight shell or a 120 pound rower using a heavyweight shell. The shells may be rowable but a light person in a heavyweight shell will have trouble "setting it up" because not enough water will be displaced and the shell will float on top of the water like a cork. Conversely, a heavy person in a lightweight shell will not have enough freeboard, making it difficult to extract the oars from the water.

I advise those interested in buying racing shells to use a club boat first. That club boat could well be the boat for life if high performance is not an issue. Club boats are generally more durable because they are slightly heavier. A typical club boat will weigh in at 34-38 pounds; an elite racer will be in the 28 to 32 pound weight range.

Learn to row a club boat. Only then will you know whether you want the high performance or choice of adjustments available on a higher end shell.

Before buying a high end shell, you should row as many as you can because each has a little different feel. The one that feels best is the one for you.

Open Water Shells

Most single shell rowers, at least the older ones, start in the open water shells that are also called recreational shells and sometimes, wherries.
These shells are shorter, wider and therefore slower, but offer much more stability than the racing shells. They forgive mistakes in technique. That means they may lurch but capsize is less likely.
Open water shells come in 3 lengths. 16-18 feet, 21 feet, and 24 feet. The shorter lenghts are more stable.

NOTE: You can learn more about these shells by going to the manufacturers' websites:
www.rowalden.com; www.levator.com; www.peinert.com, or www.wintecracing.com

Photo in masthead: is of Lew's wife Harriet.
Placed second Age 60-69 Head of Charles 2006